Day 30 – Wednesday, February 25, 2026

Apparently, the start of my fifth week, but then who is counting. One reason I rode 192 km the previous day is that I was expecting bike troubles - yes, again. All bike shops open at 10, so I had a leisurely (and, admittedly a large) breakfast at my mansion-like hotel. Now you might want to skip this section if you're not interested in how I managed to get my bike fixed in Iquique. My hunch feeling (aided by Google review) led me to a bike shop - but it was closed. So I went to my second-best hunch feeling-shop (still Google). There a guy from Cuba tried to get the issue fixed. He did not have a small screwdriver, so I offered to buy one. Oh, what a cool country! There was a large home renovation and construction store about a mile away. I hailed a cab - it stopped, though two others were in. For €1, I got there, picked up the part. There was some music blairing, it went "Don't let the lights go out", in that very moment there was a 30-second blackout. I swear this is exactly how it happened. For another £1 back to the store? not even with thrvnew tool was he able to mend thrviddue. Sone two hours were gönnen. A third bike store was so busy that they did not even talk to me, so Intried the first store, first hunch. It was a modern, brand new store with wonderful bikes; he took my bike, told me to return in an hour and it was done! Alas, even testing it, while it was much better, they were still some rattlingnoise from the back. Yet again, an issue with the bearing, which was replaced in Antofagasta. It was 2 pm, he would close for siesta and I should return at 4 pm. I rode downtown, visited a wonderful cathedral, marveled at impressive colonial buildings and had a truly excellent chicken (the photo of which did not fit the frame, I had to.afjust it). At 4 pm, I returned and by 5:30, the issue was resolved, thanks to the Magician! For a first time on thus trip, it was truly hot and i fel it (almost fell asleep whole waiting for the bike), so I thought of staying in town and leaving at dawn. There was a huge climb eating for me - the only way to get out of town towards the north - you had to climb to 1,200m from sea-level eastwards.

I thought I might as well start riding and go as far as I could that evening. I got some supplies, especiallywater and I started my ascent. Traffic was heavy, to make things worse, a battered car kept stopping in front of me, thus blocking the narrow shoulder, it had issues mastering the steep incline (like me) I had to overtake it like five times. The first picture I posted tells you a lot about sociodemographic situation in Chile. Next to the road was a slum, then small, shabby family homes, followed by modern, high rise buildings. The do-called Gini coefficient, which measures the gap between rich and poor is one of the highest in all OECD countries - though it is showing sings of improvement. My suffering with the steep ascent was eased by amazing views of the settling sun. It was incredible how this town was tucked between the ocean, a mountain (I was riding on) and a sand dune even the Sahara would be proud of. The sand dune fascinated me. Near the top of the ascent, I heard sone rytmic thumping noise. First, I thought it was from cars crossing a bridge, but then the puzzle was resolved- it was a marching (?) band with trumpets and drums playing, apparently, to their own entertainment. Alas, while I could have asked, a steep gorge separated us. They were bidding farewell to the sun which by now was dipping into the ocean. There was a large flat area with a lookout and the thought of pitching my tent crossed my mind. Something of a sixth or seventh feeling told me not to and when I asked a couple if they thought it would be safe, they,negated this proposition firmly. I was at a rather ugly satellite town called Alto Hospicio, where, as I have just learned from Copilot, protests about violence and security issues have taken place. As it said: ".is not necessarily an everyday warzone, but it's something travelers should be aware of.". OK, I got it, no camping. I did find a rundown hotel, where I was able to spend the night for €30. Similar to my hideous hostel in La Serena, the elderly lady caretaker was very friendly, offered me a tea. My room was actually clean and comfortable - though I shall probably not want to return there.